for my son Paul. Unfortunately it was lost or stolen last winter. As this is
his very favorite sweater for skiing, and he was totally devastated,
I was happy to do it again for him.
I got to thinking it is a good opportunity for those who knit my
patterns to see up close exactly how I knit and finish most of my sweaters.
Saint Olav Pullover |
Back of Saint Olav Pullover |
always knit in the round with steeks for the plackett and neck openings.
The armholes do not have steeks but use the existing stitches which are
marked carefully before sewing and cutting.
Intarsia in the round |
back of intarsia |
As you can see the sleeve design dips way down, where the design
does not go all the way around. It is a little fiddly but easy to do this.
On the sts where the pattern starts attach the pattern color (white) and knit
across as usual with both colors. Catch the white and continue on with the
background. The next row if it is 5 or 7 sts the white can be brought loosely
across the back and knit the following row. When it is too far to bring
it across: knit all the background sts as usual, slipping the stitches that will
be white/ following the chart. Catch the pattern color carefully a st or so out
side the last design st. Turn work over and purl the slipped sts with white
across the row. Slip the worked background stitches. If you are good at
knitting backwards from the front you could do that for the pattern and
not turn it over.
Don't pull too tight! Drop the white yarn and turn work over to right side,
slide all sts worked back to right needle and continue on.
Every other row will be knit normally with both colors as the white will
end up on the right. See in the pictures how the white is carefully twisted
around the red at the ends of rows so there is no hole.
The first sweater had his initials and date on one arm. (So if anyone ever
sees this sweater, being the only one in the world! Let me know and nab
do the second sleeve also in this manner and it says TAHOE... where he skiis.
Measuring depth of armhole to sleeve/ make the cutting 1/4" less than sleeve. |
Marking and sewing side at armhole |
more rows around the next two outer stitches. Use a small stitch with any
color thread as it is all covered. After cutting up the center I zig zag the edges.
It would not fall apart if you don't!
neck and steek for neckhole all ready to stitch |
Inside of front neck steek from wrong side |
Front placket ready to sew |
sewing plackett |
finishing edge of plackett |
Knitting 3 needle bind off of shoulders |
orange stitches pop on the front. If you don't want to have it show at all do
this from the inside. I used to do kitchener st as it looks great but the arm
will pull the shoulder seam down and not look so great. I do it more as a
decorative trim lately. It matches the garter stitch at the top of the sleeves too.
finished sleeve with 1 row garter stitch and facing |
matress stitch to garter on sleeve |
It pays to mark the exact row where you do the matress stitch side
on the body so you stay in the exact groove. I put about 4 safety pins to
match the sleeve to armhole. On the sleeve side I match the purl bump
putting the needle up or to my left and then back down on the other side of
the st. It makes a double purl bump on the sleeve side. I think these pictures
say better than words, or I hope so. It does not work out exactly st for st and
I usually have to ease in the body side a bit.
I used to always wash and block sweaters after the sewing/ cutting.
This time I did the pieces for better pictures and it was so much easier!
Now I will wash first, cut and sew secondly.
The pattern... Saint Olav Pullover... is available on Ravelry under Cynthia
Wasner designs to download the pdf immediately or on my website
http://norskneedlework.com. Here you pay through paypal and I either
mail the pdf to your e-mail or snail mail the printed copy (Printed only to USA)
Also I do have the Finullgarn from Rauma available here to sell if you so desire.
It is in these colors too. Just e-mail me if interested. cindy@norskneedlework.com
Please e-mail me to say if you need more explicit pictures or anything I can
do better here! I am alway available on Ravelry or e-mail for help!!!!